Since listing my original gear choices in 2017 there have been some new versions released which I have upgraded to. Some of the photos have my old choices.
This is one part of my climbing that I enjoy, spending hours on researching, drooling over and field-testing.
It's becoming very fashionable to use the term fast and light, and while that may have been be the case for the late great alpinist Ueli Steck, we are not all like him, but with the progression of newer and lighter gear, we may be able to move a little faster in the hills.
ALPINE CLIMBING GEAR SELECTION
The majority of my alpine climbing is done down in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru or the Southern Alps of New Zealand and the conditions there change from season to season respectively. I really put the emphasis on finding the most durable and lightest gear available, as it is very hard to replace in Huaraz half way through a season. I’m not too concerned about having too much gear to transport in Peru as a I keep a year-round house share in Huaraz which allows me to store some items and I use a camper van in New Zealand.
Climbing Gear
Petzl Sirocco helmet (170g)
Alpinware Head Case (45g)
Petzl Crampons; Dart (745g) | Dart Hybrid (680g) | Irvis Hybrid (505g) | Leopard (400g)
Petzl Tools: Quark (2 x 480g) | Gully (2 x 265g) | Sumtec (2 x 435g)
Petzl V-Link leash (80g) | Blue Ice Solo Leash (2 x 28g)
Petzl Carry Tools (2 x 25g)
Petzl Whisper harness (170g) (Petzl Sitta pictured)
Black Diamond Recon LT Beacon (137g) (Pieps DSP Pro avalanche transceiver pictured)
Pieps Checker (19g)
Black Diamond QuickDraw Carbon Probe 240 (227g)
Black Diamond Transfer LT Shovel (405g)
The Petzl Sirocco is an awesome lightweight helmet. Just make sure you put it on your airline carry-on luggage and carry it your pack to the respective base camps as it will not last five minutes in a duffel bag. I place my helmet inside a Head Case helmet bag made by Alpinware out of Kathmandu. It’s a padded bag with a drawstring that allows me to place glacier glasses and other items inside the helmet securely. It’s a clever bag that protects the helmet from scrapes but will not stop it cracking if dropped, baggage handlers, etc.
I have multiple crampons for alpine climbing depending on the route and conditions. The Petzl Dartwin and Dart crampons were some of the lightest technical steel crampons available until they were morphed into the new one crampon does it all modular Dart. The new crampons have a modular front section allowing you to switch from dual front points to a single mono point. I prefer a mono-point if the route I'm climbing has a lot of steep rock whereas I prefer the duo points for steep ice.
If I have an easy approach on an acclimatization rotation, such as to high camp on Cholatse, where I will usually only encounter soft and neve snow, I will wear a pair of super lightweight all aluminum Petzl Leopard or Irvis Hybrid crampons, which have a front steel section and a rear aluminum section, as you hardly know you are wearing these crampons and the Dyneema cord front and heel link enables these to be packed more compactly in my pack. I have fused together the heel section of the Irvis Hybrid with the new front Dart section using a Cord Tec replacement cord. This set up is now similar to my Leopard and Irvis Hybrid crampons but having a Dart front section allows more technical climbing than the Irvis Hybrid and for only 680 grams. For more committing routes, I still prefer the security of a standard crampon connection bar over the Cord Tec setup.
On technical climbs I need a harness, which is comfortable, light and has sufficient gear loops for all the additional hardware I am carrying. I find the Petzl Whisper is perfect for all my needs as it's super lightweight and very comfortable.
For alpine routes I have climbed before or routes where I kind of know what to expect in regards to what protection I need to place, I will use a pair of Petzl Quarks stripped of the Griprest and the Trigrest as well as the adze and the full hammer. Stripping these tools brings their weight down to 460 grams each but I will add a Mini Marteau Hammer weighing 20 grams to both of the tools if I know I will be placing pitons and snow pickets. I wrap each tool in 3M Temflex electrical tape to allow a nice sticky grip to the shaft as well as adding some insulation. Petzl have released a newer version of the Quark's with a new design of shaft. They are the same weight and style as the older version apart from the shaft and seeing as I have my tools wrapped in Temflex, I have not seen the point to upgrade to the newer version.
If I know the route I am climbing and it's predominantly on neve snow I will use a pair of Gully axes to save weight on the approach and the route as these tools are ultra-lightweight and good for non-super technical routes. As with the Quarks I wrap the Gully tools in 3M Temflex tape.
If I am climbing in the Ishinca Valley of the Cordilera Blanca, where the terrain is not super technical and where I will need a second tool occasionally, I will use a pair of stripped down Petzl Sumtec piolets. The Petzl Sumtec in a 55cm length is a much better suited general mountaineering axe but comes with the added weight of 450 grams when stripped, still lighter than most technical piolets offered at present. I prefer the longer, not so aggressive bend of the shaft of the Sumtec's on non/semi-technical alpine terrain where I will predominantly plunge my axes for a better self-belay. As with the Quarks, I remove the standard adze and hammer and add two mini hammers to the tools as well as wrapping them in 3M Temflex electrical tape.
People ask me why do I use two Blue Ice Solo leashes when they offer the Hydra leash, which is designed for two tools. The leash length on the Solo can extend to 135cm and is slightly longer than that on the Hydra, which I prefer. Two Solo leashes have a combined weight of 56 grams whereas the Hydra weighs 54 grams. I can also remove one of the Solo leashes from my harness if I have an easy approach enabling me to free up my harness of additional clutter and attach the additional tool to my pack rather than holstering on my harness for a long period of time. If I am climbing a route with a very direct approach to the technical part of the climb I will use the Petzl V-Link.
Carrying an avalanche transceiver is pointless unless it's accompanied by a probe and a shovel. On 8,000-meter peaks the transceiver is worn mostly to allow others to locate a body for retrieval rather than a quick search tool, although folks are now relying on the Recco device sealed in their clothing for body recovery. On lower altitude alpine terrain, it is worn as a tool and climbers with the right training can possibly save each other's lives if the need arises. I usually climb with a single partner in remote areas so we need to be self-sufficient in all aspects of rescue. The Black Diamond QuickDraw Carbon probe is one of the easiest I have ever used and with its 240cm length it comes in at only 227 grams. I use the Transfer LT shovel as it only weighs 405 grams.
I included the avalanche transceiver as climbing gear as I think it's as important as an axe or harness. I have used the Pieps DSP Pro version for many years as it has a 60-meter range and is very simple to use. All my Sherpa wear these and know how to perform a search and rescue with them. It only weighs 200 grams so why would you not wear it. I also bring along a Pieps Checker to make sure my partners and my transceiver are working correctly. Black Diamond & Pieps have released a newer version of the DSP Pro which is called the Black Diamond Guide BT and the Pieps Pro BT respectively. It's pretty much the same as the DSP Pro but is has Bluetooth technology and a slightly different looking case. I do not need this new Bluetooth feature and the newer version is heavier at 230 grams compared to my older model at 200 grams.
The new Recon LT Beacon from Black Diamond weighs an amazing 137 grams only, so I had to upgrade and go with the lighter model. The Recon LT is small in size and I find fits better in the carrying harness when wearing a backpack than the DSP pro, so the Recon LT is now my go to beacon for all my climbs.
Rack
Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots from #0.4 to #4 (843g)
Petzl Pur'Anneau Runners: 60cm runners (10 x 18g) | 120cm (2 x 32g)
Black Black Diamond 10mm Dynex runners: 60cm (10 x 19g) | 30cm (10 x 11g) | 120cm (2 x 39g)
Black Diamond MiniWire carabiner (20 x 23g) (Petzl Ange S pictured)
Black Diamond Ultralight Ice Screw 13cm (2 x 74g), 16cm (10 x 81g) & 22cm (2 x 96g)
Black Diamond Stoppers, from #4 to #13 (442g)
Black Diamond MiniWire carabiner (20 x 23g) for stoppers, screws and camalots (Petzl Ange S pictured)
Petzl Attache screwgate carabiner (2 x 56g)
Petzl Rocha screwgate carabiner (2 x 45g) (Petzl Spirit pictured)
Black Diamond Lost Arrow Piton #1 (2 x 56g) | Black Diamond Angle Piton #1 (2 x 56g)
For a season in Peru, I do not really know what I will need until I get down there and talk with other climbers in Huaraz who are returning from the hills. If I don't bring it with me there is no way to purchase it in Huaraz so I need to make sure I have all my rack available.
The Black Diamond Ultralight Camalots are awesome and 25% lighter than the original cams. There are lighter cams available but not with such a different size range.
I usually will climb with ten 60cm runners combined with Black Diamond MiniWire biners. Some people say these biners are too small but I actually prefer their size as they rack easier on my harness loops and take up less space as the nose has a very slim profile. I prefer for my biners to be visible, especially if I drop them in snow or on rocks, and the orange ones allow me to find them easily. The Petzl Pur'Anneau runners are a few grams lighter than the previous Fin'Anneau runners although the different sizes are not as easy to distinguish as the previous version, although this does not really bother me as my 60cm alpine quickdraws have biners on both ends, whereas my 120cm runners are attached to a single biner. I will also carry two 120cm runners for safety slings and additional belay anchors. For routes where I will be climbing predominantly on rock, I will switch the Pur'Anneau runners for Black Diamond 10mm Dynex runners as these are a little more durable for sharp rock edges. On steeper routes where I do not expect too much rope drag, I will switch out the 60cm runners for 30cm runners to save weight on my collective draws. I switched from using the Petzl Agne S to the Black Diamond MiniWire as they are larger than the Petzl and 5 grams lighter. This means that I save an amazing 200 grams when using a full rack of MiniWire's over the Ange S.
For many years I have been using the Black Diamond Express screws in the 16cm length mostly. These weigh 145 grams then I switched to the Petzl Laser Speed Lite in a 17cm length that weighs only 100 grams. That does not sound like a lot of weight difference being only 45 grams lighter but multiply that by the ten ice screws I may be carrying at one time and that's a 450 grams difference, nearly half a kilo.
I had waited a long time for Black Diamond to release the Ultralight ice screw and I was not disappointed. I prefer to have the majority of my screws in the 16cm length and will only carry a couple of 13cm screws on routes where I do not expect to use screws, just in case. When using the 16cm length if I find the screw is too long I can always girth hitch a sling onto it although usually the ice conditions in the Cordillera Blanca require the longer screw. I carry a couple of the 22cm version for making v-threads.
I prefer the Black Diamond stoppers over any other brand of nuts and will carry sizes #4 through #13 with me. I will have additional MiniWire biners for stoppers, screws and cams, a couple of the Petzl Attache and a couple of the Petzl Rocha screwgate carabiners.
Just as an insurance policy I will carry around four pitons. I prefer Black Diamond Lost Arrows and Angles, both in the #1 size, as these are the lightest ones available from BD.
Tools
Petzl Multitool (40g)
Petzl Reverso rappel/belay device (57g)
DMM Bugette rappel/belay device (27g)
Petzl Tibloc ascender (39g)
Petzl Spatha knife (43g) (older version pictured)
Petzl Oscillante pully (2 x 42g)
Petzl Nano Traxion (53g)
The Petzl Multihook is an awesome piece of gear as it can be used to remove nuts, thread a v-thread and even remove shit from inside an ice screw. It's a basic lightweight piece of gear, which is well thought out especially the fold away hook/blade that can fit inside an ice screw for transport. I will bring two of these down to Peru just in case I lose one.
Most ATC's are pretty much the same design these days but the new Petzl Reverso is one the lightest of its kind and is now designed for twin ropes as thin as 6.9mm. If I am using ropes with a diameter smaller than 7mm then I will use the DMM Bugette device with two locking biners to increase friction. I will take two of each with me for the season in case I lose one.
I always carry a Petzl Tibloc device if I am traveling on a glacier as well as a couple of pulleys. My trustworthy Spatha knife is always on my harness for when I need to cut cord for my v-threads. The new Spatha weighs 43 grams and has a slightly larger handle and the blade can be locked compared to the older non-locking version weighing 49 grams.
Rope & Hardware
Black Diamond 7mm x 60m ropes (2 x 2,040g) | Petzl Pur’Line (1,300g)
6mm perlon 6 meter (6m x 24g)
Alpinware Snow Bar (4 x 270g) (MSR Snow Picket pictured)
Alpinware Anchor Man (2-4 x 95g) (not pictured)
Alpinware Snow Bucket (2-4 X 34g) (not pictured)
Alpinware Rap Bar (2-4 x 150g) (not pictured)
For easy climbing terrain on predominantly snow and ice I will use a thinner half/twin rope than on steeper more committing routes with a lot of rock and mixed conditions. For the occasions where I have no mules to help getting gear to base camp and I have to carry all my gear, I will use a pair of Black Diamond 7mm ropes as they only weigh an amazing 34 grams per meter. When using skinny ropes on rappels I use two locking biners with my BMM Buguette rappel device to increase the friction.
I carry about 6 meters of 6mm cord for anchors but I will travel to Peru with about 30 meters in total for the season as it's very expensive to purchase down there.
For years I used the MSR Coyote pickets as they were the standard for most North American based climbers. MSR have improved the picket over the years by adding a reinforced hammer strike end to protect the picket end from deformation, but eventually it ends up damaged as the strike head is aluminum and this addition brings the new weight to 397 grams for the 60cm version. They have now discontinued the venerable 60cm snow picket and recently shortened the length of the picket, sharpened the drive end and added a permanent cable to the center point, now being marketed as the Cable Picket. I really like the shorter length and more aggressive drive end but not a big fan of the permanently fixed cable. MSR should offer the shorter length picket without the cable, although in my opinion, they are expensive, a little on the heavy side and awkward to carry if you have multiple pickets for a route.
The knowledgeable folks at SMC recently introduced the Pro Picket, which gives the MSR Cable Picket a run for its money. It's lighter, has a better designed strike end and generally handles better than the MSR version. I removed the attached cable to make it lighter at 321 grams and to be more practical in its placement, as again, I'm not a big fan of center attached cables on pickets. I attached some swagged plastic-coated steel cable loops weighing 6 grams each for easier racking on my harness and as a strong bomber clip in point at the head of the picket. SMC are now offering the picket without the cable and marketing it as the Pro Light Picket.
I couldn't find a suitable snow picket that ticked all the boxes for me until I discovered the Snow Bar from Alpinware, a Kathmandu based alpine gear company. The Snow Bar meets all UIAA requirements for size and strength and is fabricated in Kathmandu. These pickets are similar in style to the European and New Zealand V angle snow stake but the Alpinware version are super lightweight at only 270 grams each compared to the MSR Cable Picket at 450 grams a piece. They are easy to carry as they are shorter than the traditional picket and have a designated plastic coated semi-rigid clipping in loop to allow multiple pickets to stack on one's harness, plus a reinforced stainless steel hammer strike end to prolong the lifespan of the picket. For the record they do not cost anything near the $55 retail of the MSR Cable Picket.
The Peruvian guides in the Cordillera Blanca prefer a longer and wider picket, around 60-70cm in length and with a face surface area of 10-13cm for the usual loose snow conditions encountered, but I find the shorter and narrower pickets work fine. I like to have four pickets between two climbers, one or two for belaying off and a couple for protection.
As I have mentioned above, I'm not much of a fan of permanent cables attached to the center of pickets but I am a fan of "Deadman" anchors with cables attached for rappelling off, when no other protection is available in loose and soft snow conditions. Leaving a $45-$55 piece of pro behind is not the best option in my opinion, so like my preferred snow picket, I use the Anchor Man anchor from Alpinware. These are constructed of tough ABS plastic over aluminum and are also fabricated in Kathmandu. These "Deadboy” anchors are about 10% smaller than the well-known, commercially available "Deadman", have a galvanized cable attached with a plastic sleeve to protect the rope going through the loop and only weigh 95 grams each compared to the 360 grams of the well-known Deadman from Wales. They are cheap enough that I can leave a few behind on a route if I have to and that some lucky climber finds them and reuses them in the future.
In Peru on a route late in the day and when the snow is soft and deep, I sometimes have to use the Snow Bucket anchor from Alpinware. This snow sack rappel anchor is buried and has a Dyneema sling attached to it, that cuts through the snow creating a solid rappel anchor. Nobody likes to leave gear behind on a route but sometimes there is no other choice. The Anchor Man is easier to place but the Snow Bucket is another option as I carry a shovel with me and it packs small and weighs nothing. The primary purpose of the Snow Bucket is for snow storage for cooking as well as a water carrier. When using the bucket for cooking I also have a pet food scoop (45g) available to make it easier to place snow into my small diameter cookpots I use.
I'm presently testing some prototypes from the Alpinware crew with another snow anchor, the Rap Bar. It's pretty much the same design as the Snow Bar, but slightly smaller in length, has all the angled corners and tip rounded to allow it to be stowed inside a pack if needed without damaging the pack and its contents. It's made of ABS plastic to reduce weight and is designed to be used as an emergency rappel anchor/snow picket. It's not designed to take a fall but rather a controlled rappel in a push. The Rap Bar meets UIAA requirements for size but not for strength and only weighs 150 grams.
Clothing
La Sportiva G5 boots (1,706g)
Arcteryx Nuclei FL synthetic down jacket with hood (280g)
Arcteryx Atom SL synthetic down jacket with hood (260g) | Atom SL synthetic down vest (155g)
Arcteryx Cerium SL down jacket with hood (215g) | Cerium SL down vest (125g)
Mountain Hardwear Kelvinator hooded vest (?g)
Arcteryx Phase SL long underwear top (120g) | Phase SL long underwear bottom (120g)
Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody (210g)
Mountain Hardwear Quasar Pullover (261g)
Arcteryx Fortez beanie hat (2 x 25g)
Black Diamond CoEfficient ¼ zip top (386g) | Black Diamond CoEfficient pant (200g)
Black Diamond Alpine Softshell pant (400g)
Black Diamond Punisher gloves (164g)
Black Diamond Dirt Bag gloves (158g)
Patagonia Liner socks (?g)
Smartwool Mountaineering socks (81g)
One of the most important areas of gear choice is footwear, both boots and socks. Wherever possible I like to wear a liner sock and then a thicker mountaineering sock as I have had a lot of frostnip (not frostbite) over the years and I like the warmth of a two socks system. A lot of climbers wear their boots too small and this results in cold feet and frostbite as the feet expand at altitude. I'm not going to get scientific here and draw charts with elevation and expansion rates, etc., so here's my take on what size boot you should wear.
Luckily, as I mentioned above, I have never had frostbite on any of my toes or fingers, but have had many instances of very cold feet, resulting in losing all my toenails. As I get older, I'm trying to look after my feet the best I can and I wear a vapor barrier sock for added warmth security on 8,000-meter peaks. I usually add a VB sock between my liner and mountaineering sock for the summit push as I would rather have warm wet toes, than cold wet ones. I used the Rab vapor barrier socks until I discovered a better version, Vapor Sox from Alpinware. These are a better quality, lighter but made of thicker material, have a better fit and perform much better overall.
I wear La Sportiva boots exclusively as I think they are best boots available for alpine and high altitude climbing. I am not saying this because La Sportiva give me free boots, I purchase all my gear as I am a climber and not a good looking athlete that can sell shit by me wearing their gear. They make good boots period.
I wear a US size 10 street shoe so for ice climbing Upstate New York or alpine climbing around Chamonix I wear a size US10 La Sportiva Bataura with a medium thickness mountaineering sock. For 6,000-meter peaks in Peru and on the amazing Cholatse I will also wear the same boot but in a size US11 in conjunction with a thin liner sock and a medium thickness mountaineering sock to allow for the feet expansion due to the increased altitude. Remember tight fitting boots mean cold feet.
On 8,000-meter peaks during acclimatization rotations where I may climb as high as 7,300 meters, I wear the La Sportiva G2 boot also in a size US11. Most folks don't get cold climbing in lightweight boots, they cold when they stop climbing. When I go for a summit push, I leave the G2's at base camp and don the Olympus Mons to summit and back, hopefully. My 8,000-meter summit boots are sized US12, that's 2 sizes larger than my street shoe and again I wear the liner sock and medium thickness mountaineering sock combination.
The biggest reason for cold feet is one or more of the following problems.
1. Your boots are too small to allow for feet expansion at altitude.
2. Your boots are crap and you should have upgraded to a decent pair many years ago.
3. Your pace needs improving, as you are moving too slow, possibly need to train more and buy new lighter gear.
For many years I had been using La Sportiva Batura boots as these were perfect for low to mid altitude alpine climbs, especially Peru up to elevations of 5,500-6,000 meters. I even got away wearing them as high as Cholatse (6,440m) in Nepal, but I wouldn't want to go any higher as these are a not a double boot, but a one and half boot. The Baturas were phased out and became the G5 boot. I still use the original G5 as I am not a fan of the Evo version with the BOA dial and the exterior of the gaiter. I often come across damaged BOA dials on the trail. I place my mid layer pant end over the interior dial to stop it rubbing against the gaiter and causing a friction hole as I see on so many climbers’ boots.
As with my 8,000-meter clothing systems, I prefer to use multiple layers for my outer and inner insulation needs instead of wearing a heavy fleece jacket or carrying a large, heavy and bulky belay parka that sits in my pack most of the time.
Arcteryx clothing - Do I really need to say anymore. Some of the nicest, best designed and made outdoor clothing available. It's expensive gear but I think worth every penny.
I use the following layering system for insulation (not wind protection) on my upper and lower body starting next to my skin:
1. Arcteryx Arcteryx Phase SL long underwear top and bottom.
2. Black Diamond CoEfficient ¼ zip top and CoEfficient pant.
3. Arcteryx Atom SL synthetic down jacket with hood | Black Diamond Alpine Softshell pant.
4. Arcteryx Cerium SL down jacket with hood.
5. Arcteryx Nuclei FL synthetic down jacket with hood.
6. Mountain Hardwear Kelvinator hooded vest.
I will wear a lightweight Black Diamond CoEffecient top on top of my Arcteryx super lightweight base layers. On top of this I will wear a synthetic layer with the Arcteryx Atom SL jacket to combat perspiration issues. This jacket only has light insulation around the main torso and the arms, side panels and hood are not insulated, to reduce weight and allow the body to breathe. Having lightweight synthetic insulation will still keep me warm if the insulation gets wet from perspiration.
A down layer on top of this with the Arcteryx Cerium SL will insulate me and if needed I will wear an additional synthetic layer with the Arcteryx Nuclei FL hooded jacket in case of any precipitation. This layer will keep my down jacket dry and functioning. I have multiple hoods to keep each respective layer dry.
For any long belays I will throw on the Mountain Hardwear Kelvinator hooded parka (minus the arms) as this is now superlight and keeps my upper body warm (not arms) quickly.
I will also have the Arcteryx Atom SL and Celrium SL hooded jackets in a vest version if I do not need all the hoods and extra warmth of long sleeves. I do not know exactly what system I will use until at the mountain, so I make sure I have everything with me at base camp, hence the reason I go very lightweight on clothing.
From the 2021 season onwards I have removed the down Cerium SL jacket from my climbing clothing system and now wear this exclusively at base camp or in mountain huts. Since Arcteryx introduced the new 2020 version of the Nuclei FL, which is warmer (although slightly heavier) and slightly longer in its fit, I now use this as a belay jacket and use the older Nuclei FL instead of the Cerium SL in my layering system. I will still have the Kelvinator jacket with me at base camp but may not carry it on a climb if the conditions do not require it as the 2020 Nuclei FL is warm enough and super lightweight. Below is my newer layering system which has no down clothing in its line-up.
I now use the following layering system for insulation on my upper and lower body starting next to my skin:
1. Arcteryx Arcteryx Phase SL long underwear top and bottom.
2. Black Diamond CoEfficient ¼ zip top and CoEfficient pant.
3. Arcteryx Atom SL synthetic down jacket with hood | Black Diamond Alpine Softshell pant.
5. Arcteryx Nuclei FL (2016) synthetic down jacket with hood.
6. Arcteryx Nuclei FL (2020) synthetic down jacket with hood.
7. Mountain Hardwear Kelvinator hooded vest (if conditions dictate).
As with the layering of my upper body I do the same with my head and have two thin beanies which creates a thick warm one if needed.
With me using a lightweight sleeping bag I utilize a warm down jacket for a comfortable sleeping system, like I use a down suit with my sleeping bag on 8,000-meter peaks. The Mountain Hardwear Kelvinator jacket is a warm hooded down jacket but I had my tailor in Kathmandu remove the arms to reduce weight and to make the jacket a vest, which is more comfortable to climb in if weather conditions dictate. Removing the arms has reduced the weight considerably and allows the jacket to be packed even smaller.
The Cordillera Blanca is usually warmer than the Himalayas so I prefer to use a lighter shell jacket and pant. The Black Diamond Alpine Start Hoody is so light you forget you are wearing it. If I expect some precipitation or strong winds then I may switch to the Mountain Hardwear Quasar Pullover as it's more of a Gore-Tex style jacket. The Black Diamond Alpine Softshell pant is lighter than most soft-shell pants and I find has adequate protection from the wind and snow.
I will do a lot of rappelling while spending the season down in Peru so I will take a couple of pairs of the Black Diamond Dirt Bag gloves as they have great dexterity and are pretty cheap, the only downside is they are not that warm but that's the trade off as I usually trash them both by the end of the season.
Personal Items
Petzl Headlamps; Actik (98g) | Actik Core (88g) | E+Lite (26g)
Petzl Noctlight (85g) | Shell LT (5g)
Julbo Glacier Glasses; Trek (33g) | Shield (32g)
Casio G Shock watch (79g)
Salomon Soft Flask Speed (2 x 34g)
Buff neck scarf (?g)
Thermarest Neo Uberlite mattress (250g) | Neo Xlite mattress (340g)
Mountain Hardwear Mtn Speed bag (446g) | Rab mythic Ultra 360 bag (606g) | Valandre Lafayette bag (1,020g)
Rab Hot Socks (135g)
MSR Stoves; Reactor 1L (420g) | Pocket Rocket (73g) | Mini Trail 0.8L (125g)
Black Diamond Firstlight Tent (1,160g) | Alpinware Alpine Lite tent (800g)
Rab Ark Bivy Bag (105g) PIEPS Bivy Bag Pictued)
SPF chap stick and small tube of sunscreen (?g)
Arcteryx Alpha SL 30 pack (444g) | Black Diamond Blitz 28 pack (444g) | Blitz 20 pack (398g)
Alpinware Tump Line (74g)
Black Diamond Touchstone 70 (2,440g) | Zion 145 Haul Bag (4,290g)
The Petzl Noctilight is a great little carrying case for my Actik & Actik Core headlamps which means I can leave the batteries in place without being concerned that the light will accidentally switch on and drain the batteries. Once I’m on the hill and climbing I switch out the Noctlight for the Petzl Shell LT pouch as their weights are 85 grams and 5 grams respectively. I prefer to have this lantern hanging in place when getting ready for an alpine start from base camp rather than two climbers blinding each other with their headlamps in a cramped tent.
I upgraded my trustworthy Actik headlamp to the newer Actik Core version as it has 625 lumens compared to 450 lumens of the original and it’s 10 grams lighter. I still prefer to use lithium AAA batteries over the rechargeable battery that comes with it.
In addition to my regular Actik headlamp I will also bring a back-up light in the form of the Petzl E+Lite. This headlamp is only for emergency use if my regular light fails, it only weighs 26 grams and is very compact, as I prefer this over carrying two regular headlamps.
I have been using Julbo since day one and there is no better brand out there for glacier eyewear. Again, this is my honest opinion and I am not swayed by my choices by receiving free gear, although I could, and I would, so if anyone in the business reads this, I need stuff, preferably in black, as I like to think I'm the Johnny Cash of the Himalaya. The Trek from Julbo give me full UV coverage but I have to be careful at the top of the brow where I always forget to ply sunblock. These are great glasses for a fair price. You may have a hard time finding a pair of Trek glasses now days as they have been discontinued and replaced with the equally awesome Julbo Shield. The Shields are not as sexy as the Treks, but they are a solid choice for glacier glasses.
The Suunto Ambit 2 is a great watch but the battery life is quite short. If I'm alpine climbing somewhere for any length of time then I will wear a cheaper Casio G Shock watch, as I do not want the hassle of looking for electricity or carrying solar panels to recharge the watch every three days.
I see a lot of climbers, especially from the States using Nalgene bottles. They are a strong popular bottle but I have had them crack on me due to the cold temperatures experienced on the north side of Everest, there's a pattern here with carabiners and crampons also breaking because it's un-believably cold early in the season in Tibet. I have been using the same Platypus 1 Liter PlusBottle since 2012, and although it's discolored from all kinds of beverages being put in there, it has never leaked and it only weighs 23 grams. How much does an empty Nalgene weigh and can the Nalgene fit snug in chest pockets under layers so it will not freeze? I had some insulation sleeves made in Kathmandu from very lightweight foam stitched inside a very lightweight fabric that fits like a sleeve over the bottle to reduce the chance of the contents freezing.
On short alpine climbs I may only need a little water so I switch out the 1-liter Platypus Plusbottle for the smaller 0.5-liter Salomon Soft Flask as I find this is easier to stow in my smaller sized backpack I use for alpine climbing. I find the speed soft flask does not freeze as easily as the Platypus bottle although it has a smaller volume. I will bring two just in case one breaks on me.
Every climb needs a buff as they weigh nothing and are great for any trek to base camp where the trail is dusty and pack animals ply the route.
Depending on the route and expected temperatures I will use a Thermareset Neo Uberlite or Xlite mattress. The Uber is considerably lighter in weight but not as warm as the Xlite and a little more fragile in regards to punctures.
The introduction of the Thermarest Neo Xtherm and Xlite mattress a few years ago changed the way I thought about how to sleep up high. I was never a fan of carrying both a closed cell foam pad and an air mattress due to the weight and the bulk. Then I discovered the Neo Xtherm and was hooked. I also use the Neo Xlite, which is slightly colder and just a little lighter, worth the less weight if you want to move faster with a lighter pack. The Neo Xtherm comes in at 425 grams and the Xlite at 340 grams, with the Xtherm being the same weight as a regular Thermarest foam mattress. Cascade Designs have now released a newer lighter mattress with the NeoAir UberLite weighing only 250 grams which is 90 grams lighter than the NeoAir XLite at 340 grams. These weights are for the regular sized mattresses.
When folks see my sleeping bag choices, they think I'm crazy. My Mountain Hardwear Speed 32 bag packs down smaller than a one-liter Nalgene bottle and weighs only 446 grams. It's rated to 32F but I think that is a little generous and is more like 40F. Why use such a thin bag? I have all my clothes with me anyway, so I sleep with all my layers on and higher on the hill I will wear my down clothing inside the bag.
As I'm getting older, I'm sleeping colder, so I had to upgrade my bag to a warmer one and I have started to use the Rab Mythic Ultra 360 for the extra warmth. It's only 150 grams heavier for an additional 10F of warmth.
For base camps I will use a warmer bag and the Valandre Lafayette is rated at 5F as I am not too concerned about the weight for a stationary bag. I still prefer a lighter bag at base camp that is not -20F as I like to start to sleep with many layers on, removing them once I am warm.
If I’m not carrying a tent, I will carry a Rab Ark bivi bag for emergencies as this gives me shelter from the wind and snow.
My Rab Hot Socks booties are so super light and warm. I use them in the above sleeping bag as the bag is too small in size to sleep with the boot liners on.
For occasions where I have to bivy or use a tent I will take a one-liter version of the MSR Reactor stove. This is the lightest Reactor available, smaller in bulk than the 1.7 liter version which allows the stove to easily be packed in a small 28-30 liter pack. I find this size stove is perfect for two climbers overnighting.
At lower altitudes, such as the huts we use in New Zealand I use a lighter stove system. I use the MSR Mini Trail Solo pot with its 750ml capacity and removed the silicone band to reduce the weight to 98g. This pot combined with the respective strainer lid (27g) and the MSR Pocket Rocket stove (73g) has a combined weight of 198 grams compared the smallest reactor at 420 grams. For times where I may have to use this stove in a tent and not a sheltered hut, I use a hanging system I configured using heat-proof kelvar cord and an aluminum frame to suspend the stove and pot safely.
If the weather looks sketchy, I will carry and use a Black Diamond Firstlight Tent. I have been using these tents for years for alpine climbing and for the price and quality they cannot be beat. I know there are some new brands offering some amazingly light tents but for $1,800 a tent, I’ll stick with my trustworthy BDFL.
I am though in the process of testing the Alpinware Alpine Lite tent and have been for a few years now. This Kathmandu company really has some great gear being put together and I think when this tent is commercially available, it will be a game changer in the alpinism world.
The Arcteryx FL series packs, meaning fast and light, were introduced in 2014 and then Arcteryx slightly tweaked the design a few years later. They are awesome durable packs and I would not use any other pack but the Alpha FL45 on 8,000-meter peaks. I also have the Alpha FL30 for lightweight alpine climbing. The sizes are a little misleading as the FL45 is a 33-liter pack but can be extended with its capacity to 45-liter. The FL30 is a 25-liter pack but can extend it's capacity to 30-liter.
Arcteryx released a new more accurate sized line in 2020 with the new Alpha FL30 being 30-liter extending to 37-40-liter and the Alpha FL40 being 40-liter extending to 45-48-liter. I invested in the new FL40 as sometimes on an 8,000er, I need that little extra cargo space especially if carrying a sleeping bag and a down suit at the same time. I couldn't help myself and I added the new Alpha SL30 Dyneema pack to my collection in 2025!
The Arcteryx Alpha FL 30 pack is a smaller and lighter version of the Alpha FL 45. This pack is super durable and good for routes that include a lot of rock, where the pack may come in contact with sharp edges. For 2025 I have upgraded my Alpha FL30 to the awesome Alpha SL30 in Dyneema. This is a true 30-liter sized pack and weighs only 444 grams fully loaded but can be stripped of belt and straps to reduce the weight. For total snow and ice routes I will use the Black Diamond Blitz 28 (28-liter) or Blitz 20 (20-liter) pack as they are much lighter although not as durable as the Alpha SL30. In 2022 I upgraded my Blitz 28 and 20 to the new versions weighing an astonishing 420g and 390g respectively. They are made with a new fabric which is lighter and stronger and they have an improved ice axe attachment point for the head of the tool.
If I have a larger load than I like I will use a Tump Line from Alpinware. The guys at Alpinware, based out of Kathmandu are producing some really awesome alpine climbing gear and accessories that nobody else is offering. The Tump Line is one such item and it makes my pack feel so much lighter.
For alpine approaches in Peru, I will use a Black Diamond Zion 145 Haul bag as I can get all my gear, tools, rack, etc. into one durable bag. I can carry this as a backpack for those occasions where no mules are available to my respective base camps. In Nepal I primarily use helicopters to get to base camp or the start of the trek and as with the Zion 145, the Touchstone 70 can be carried as a pack or thrown onto a yak. The Touchstone is a perfect size for the B350 helicopter hold or for someone to sit on in the back seats of the bird.
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